Tuesday 09-03-04.
Crossing over to Cambodia went a lot more smoothly than I had
anticipated. Leaving the town of Aranya Prathet in Thailand, it took
only half an hour to get across the border, buy a visa, and get into
the town of Poipet. There was a sign in immigration which read
something like 'Any aliens looking like hippies are not welcome', and a
portrait of someone who looked very much like the Queen.
My destination, and sole reason for visiting Cambodia, was to visit the
temples at Angkor Wat. The town closest too them is called Siem Reap,
which is about 150kms from the border. I had two choices of
transport... Ride in the back of a pickup truck for 10 dollars, or take
a private taxi for 20 dollars. The road looked very rough and dusty, so
i went for the easier option and took a taxi, which in the long run was
by far the better choice. The journey took a few hours over bumpy
roads, and included several detours through some paddy fields where
bridges were down. I figured out along the way that the sign showing a
man with a spade in his hand and a red line through him meant no
digging
because of landmines, which was a bit worrying, because we were driving
through those fields!
I arrived at Siem Reap none the worse for wear, and booked into a cheap
(what else!!) hostel at $3 a night. After checking in, I saw
some
people who had decided to take the pickup truck instead of a taxi turn
up an hour after me. They were caked from head to toe in red dust and
looked pretty miserable, so I gave them my best 'you won't be doing
that again smile' and went out for a beer.
The next day I decided on buying a three day pass for the Angkot Wat
complex, and I
hired a guy from the hostel at $5 a day to drive me around the sites on
the back of his moped.
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Angkor Temples
Although
Angkor Wat is the
most written and talked about
monument, ancient Angkor
actually covers an area of almost 200 square kilometres. Many of the
sites have collapsed, and a lot of them are overgrown or hidden in
jungle, which only adds to the mystery of the area, but a solid core
are easily accessable to tourists. In the years before the city's
collapse the temples were adopted by Buddhists, however, they
were clearly based initially on Hindu temples and mythology, which I
had seen myself only weeks earlier in India.
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On the first day, I wandered around the centre of Angkor Thom, which
was the last capital, religious and administrative centre of the vast
Khmer Empire. Although many of the palaces and houses which housed the
estimated 1 million population were originally made of wood and have
long since rotted away, what remains are the impressive stone monuments
of this once great capital.
The Bayon, The Baphoun, Terrace of the Elephants and Terrace of the
Leper King are the most notable areas within the complex. Extraordinary
towers, carvings figures and the jungle background making it a magical
place.
I stayed for the sunset at Phnom Bakheng, which in a way was just as
interesting to witness the sheer amount of tourists there as much as
anything else! At night, I went out to a bar in the town, and got a
lift back at stupid o'clock in the morning to find that the ten foot
gates set in a ten foot fence were locked at my hostel. Great fun
climbing over those half cut in the moonlight!!
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On Thursday 11th March 2004, I went out to the Angkor Wat temple, and
it was absolutely amazing. The temple itself is Hindu in origin, and
after climbing up the central tower, I took my time looking at the bas
relief carvings on the outer walls, which were stunning. There were
scenes from Hindu mythology alongside other scenes depicting actual
historical events, and I'm glad that I bought an additional guidebook
from a hawker, which proved to be invaluable.
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Friday, I visited Preah Ko, Lolei and Bakong in the morning, which were
all earlier, and of totally different design than the other temples.
These ones had more brick than stone in their structure. In the
afternoon I visited Preah Khan.
Writing this web page a couple of years after visiting the sites, the
immediate emotion of being there and experiencing the jungle growing
through parts of buildings has faded a little. What I can say, however,
is that the Angkor complex has some of the most amazing remains I have
ever seen, and
certainly rank in my personal top seven wonders of the world.
(I returned
to Thailand a couple of days later.)
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