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Cycling from Huamachuco to Shorey

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Cycling from Alaska to Argentina Travelogue - August 2010 Travelogue

Today was a bit of a mixed event. It started off ok, when I left Huamachuco at 07.30, loaded up with 4 days food for the road ahead. A bit of an initial steep climb out of town, but things soon settled down, and wonderfully, there was a paved road. Down to Yamobamba, and that’s where I had problems. It was at this small village I was supposed to turn left, and head up into the mountains on my short cut to Huaraz. The only problem, was that of the dozen people I asked, no  on knew about the road. There were a few random tracks leading off to the left, but the appeal of cycling for miles along a track with no firm idea of where it went, and the possibility it could dead end at anytime, was lost on me. The general consensus of the people I asked directions from, was that I should carry on along the sealed main road to a settlement  called Shorey, where there might, repeat might, be a way through to Huaraz from there. Great. A days planning down the drain.


Where i was supposed to be

 

 

Still, as I looked over on my left, and saw the huge dark clouds sitting on top of the mountains, I couldn’t help but think that maybe it was a sign. Certainly cycling on a sealed road is tonnes easier than cycling up a mud track in the rain!
So, it was on with the headphones, Slipknot selected, and away I went. It was a long climb, up to the 4000 metre mark, where the road deteriorated into a gravel track, and I cycled along a rolling plateau that in one place touched up to 4200 metres.

 

Daves Travel Pages Bad Sign


 

Approaching the 4000 metre mark, this isn’t really the sign you want to see.

 

Laguna Verde Peru

 

 

Laguna Verde


A few lakes existed amidst the boulders and windswept tufts of grass.

A downhill began, past one of the many mines in this area, before a short uphill into the settlement of Shorey. I stopped off at the police station there, and the kind chaps they were, they drew me a map of a route to Huaraz.

 

Hand Drawn Map


 

Hand Drawn Map


The route will actually go through many of the villages I had on my previous list, so by coming along the main road, I don’t think I lost much distance, and actually, it would have made for easier cycling. As a bonus, the police guy described a road that follows the Rio Santa, which if it is there and accessible, means that I will cut out a huge ascent to the town of  Pallasca and subsequent descent back down to the river. I’ll see when I get there.
Home for the night was a simple room in a hospedje, whose usual clientele is mine workers. They also did a rather nice evening meal which was just the job after  1400 metre elevation gain day. At night, I replaced all four brake pads. The heavy braking involved in cycling over the Andes is taking its toll on my wheel rims, and they are scarred and dished out. I hope they last until the end of the trip. Quite cold up here, as I am at the 3700 metre mark.

 

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