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Mon
19/01/04
I got up early in the morning for my boat ride on the Ganges. It was a
foggy morning, so unfortunately I didn't get to see the sunrise, the
fog certainly added to the atmosphere of the day.
From the clothes washers thrashing clothes on slabs, to the funeral
pyres and the boats stacked full of wood. The people bathing in and
drinking the water, to the tourists, it was all incredible. Here's a
short piece of prose..
Ganges
A rabid dog
feasting on the rotting corpse,
Of a dead pig,
washed up by the putrid, faecal waters
Of you, Holy
Ganges.
Probably not going to go down in history for that one!
Anyway,
I went to a couple of temples afterwards. My guide was helpful, and
mentioned a couple of interesting things, such as that Hinduism like
Christianity has a trinity. Om is the word for this joint godhead, and
the individual Gods are just different personalities of the same thing.
bought a silk table cloth and posted it home (looks very good on my
wall!).
Tuesday 20/01/04
Had a lazy breakfast and watched TV before checking out at noon.
Settled my bill, and left my bag in their cloakroom whilst I sat out on
the lawn reading, and planning the next few days.A Dutch couple turned
up in a huge camper van that they had obvioulsy driven over from
Holland, but I never got a chance to chat to them.
At the train station, I had a long wait for the train. There was an ace
announcement though..
'The 22.20 Howrah train is running .... indefinately .... late, and
will arrive ... later '
A reasonably entertaining wait, watching the odd rat put in a celebrity
appearance, and of course the cows leaving huge dollops of poo all over
the platform. Got talking to another Christian religious sort, who gave
me a pamphlet, which was just as well, because I was running low on
toilet paper.
Wed 21/01/04
Another long journey, and the Indian railway system kept to their
unwritten policy of ignoring the timetable. Caught a bicycle rickshaw
in Satna to the bus stand, and then got on an extrememely crowded bus
to Khajorho. A jeep ride into the town, and straight into a nice and
cheap hotel room, where I decided to have a chill out day.
Thursday 22/01/04
After a good breakfast, I went to see the western group of temples, which I have to say were pretty impressive.
Just
why they were all built in this one, out of the way place is a mystery.
My answer to it is that it was a builders display for people from other
towns to come and choose the temple they wanted to build in their home
towns!
A lot of them had erotic sculptures lining the walls. Again, a group of
random Indians asked to take my photo, and I got an equally bemused
tourist to take a photo of them with me as well. I spent the evening
playing chess with a couple of locals and drinking chai.
 
I spent the next couple of days chilling out, and taking various trains
to get to Amritsar, which you can read in the next section.
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