:root{
  --sea:#0d5c7d; --sea-deep:#093f56; --sand:#f7f2e9; --paper:#fffdf9;
  --ink:#22303a; --ink-soft:#5a6b77; --terracotta:#c4643c; --line:#e6ddcd;
  --serif:Charter,'Iowan Old Style',Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif;
  --sans:-apple-system,BlinkMacSystemFont,'Segoe UI',Roboto,Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;
}
*{margin:0;padding:0;box-sizing:border-box}
body{background:var(--sand);color:var(--ink);font-family:var(--serif);font-size:1.25rem;line-height:1.7}

header{background:var(--sea-deep);color:#fff;font-family:var(--sans)}
.bar{max-width:1080px;margin:0 auto;padding:.9rem 1.25rem;display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;gap:1rem}
.brand{display:flex;flex-direction:column;text-decoration:none;color:#fff;line-height:1.15}
.brand b{font-size:1.35rem;letter-spacing:.01em;font-weight:700}
.brand span{font-size:.72rem;letter-spacing:.14em;text-transform:uppercase;color:#9fc4d8}
nav{display:flex;gap:.25rem;flex-wrap:wrap}
nav a{color:#e8f1f6;text-decoration:none;font-size:.95rem;padding:.45rem .8rem;border-radius:999px}
nav a:hover,nav a.on{background:rgba(255,255,255,.14)}
#menu-t{display:none}
label[for=menu-t]{display:none;cursor:pointer;font-size:1.6rem;line-height:1;padding:.2rem .4rem;border:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,.35);border-radius:8px}
@media(max-width:760px){
  label[for=menu-t]{display:block}
  nav{display:none;width:100%;flex-direction:column}
  nav a{padding:.7rem .8rem;border-radius:8px}
  #menu-t:checked ~ nav{display:flex}
  .bar{flex-wrap:wrap}
}

.crumbs{max-width:960px;margin:1.4rem auto 0;padding:0 1.25rem;font-family:var(--sans);font-size:.85rem;color:var(--ink-soft)}
.crumbs a{color:var(--sea);text-decoration:none}
.crumbs a:hover{text-decoration:underline}
main{max-width:960px;margin:0 auto;padding:0 1.25rem 3rem}
.chip{display:inline-block;font-family:var(--sans);font-size:.75rem;font-weight:600;letter-spacing:.12em;text-transform:uppercase;color:#fff;background:var(--terracotta);padding:.3rem .75rem;border-radius:999px;margin:1.4rem 0 .9rem}
h1{font-size:clamp(1.9rem,4.5vw,2.7rem);line-height:1.18;letter-spacing:-.01em;color:var(--sea-deep);text-wrap:balance}
/* homepage: no crumbs/chip above the h1, give it air below the header */
article>h1:first-child{margin-top:1.6rem}
@media(max-width:560px){h1{font-size:1.65rem;line-height:1.25}}
.meta{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:.7rem;margin:1.1rem 0 1.8rem;font-family:var(--sans);font-size:.9rem;color:var(--ink-soft)}
.meta img{width:42px;height:42px;border-radius:50%;object-fit:cover;border:2px solid #fff;box-shadow:0 1px 4px rgba(0,0,0,.18)}
.meta b{color:var(--ink);font-weight:600}
article p{margin:0 0 1.25rem}
article .lede{font-size:1.28rem;line-height:1.6;color:var(--sea-deep);font-weight:500;margin-bottom:1.6rem}
article h2{font-family:var(--sans);font-size:1.45rem;color:var(--sea-deep);margin:2.4rem 0 1rem;padding-top:.9rem;position:relative}
article h2::before{content:"";position:absolute;top:0;left:0;width:56px;height:4px;border-radius:2px;background:var(--terracotta)}
article a{color:var(--sea);text-decoration-color:#9fc4d8;text-underline-offset:3px}
article a:hover{color:var(--terracotta)}
figure{margin:1.8rem 0}
figure img{max-width:100%;height:auto;display:block;margin:0 auto;border-radius:14px;box-shadow:0 6px 22px rgba(9,63,86,.14)}
figcaption{font-family:var(--sans);font-size:.85rem;color:var(--ink-soft);text-align:center;margin-top:.6rem}
article ul{margin:0 0 1.25rem 1.4rem}
article li{margin-bottom:.4rem}

/* NEW: ride snapshot / key takeaways */
.snapshot{background:var(--paper);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:14px;padding:1.2rem 1.4rem;margin:0 0 1.8rem;font-family:var(--sans)}
.snapshot h3{font-size:.8rem;letter-spacing:.14em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--terracotta);margin-bottom:.7rem}
.facts{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fit,minmax(160px,1fr));gap:.7rem 1.2rem;font-size:.92rem}
.facts div b{display:block;font-size:.72rem;letter-spacing:.1em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--ink-soft);font-weight:600;margin-bottom:.1rem}

/* NEW: collapsible table of contents (zero-JS) */
details.toc{background:var(--paper);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:12px;margin:0 0 2rem;font-family:var(--sans);overflow:hidden}
details.toc summary{cursor:pointer;list-style:none;padding:.85rem 1.2rem;font-weight:600;font-size:.95rem;color:var(--sea-deep);display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:center}
details.toc summary::-webkit-details-marker{display:none}
details.toc summary::after{content:"›";font-size:1.3rem;color:var(--terracotta);transform:rotate(90deg);transition:transform .15s}
details.toc[open] summary::after{transform:rotate(-90deg)}
details.toc ol{margin:0;padding:.2rem 1.2rem 1rem 2.4rem;font-size:.93rem;column-count:1}
details.toc li{margin:.3rem 0}
details.toc a{color:var(--sea);text-decoration:none}
details.toc a:hover{color:var(--terracotta);text-decoration:underline}

/* NEW: series navigation */
.series{background:var(--paper);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:14px;padding:1.2rem 1.4rem;margin:2.6rem 0 0;font-family:var(--sans)}
.series h3{font-size:.8rem;letter-spacing:.14em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--terracotta);margin-bottom:.3rem}
.series .route{font-size:1.05rem;font-weight:600;color:var(--sea-deep);margin-bottom:.9rem}
.prevnext{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:.8rem;margin-bottom:.9rem}
.prevnext a{display:block;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:10px;padding:.7rem .9rem;text-decoration:none;color:var(--ink);font-size:.9rem;line-height:1.4}
.prevnext a:hover{box-shadow:0 4px 14px rgba(9,63,86,.12)}
.prevnext small{display:block;color:var(--ink-soft);font-size:.72rem;letter-spacing:.1em;text-transform:uppercase;margin-bottom:.15rem}
.prevnext .next{text-align:right}
.series details summary{cursor:pointer;list-style:none;font-size:.88rem;color:var(--sea);font-weight:600}
.series details summary::-webkit-details-marker{display:none}
.series details summary:hover{color:var(--terracotta)}
.series details ol{margin:.6rem 0 0 1.4rem;font-size:.9rem}
.series details li{margin:.25rem 0}
.series details a{color:var(--sea);text-decoration:none}
.series details a:hover{text-decoration:underline}

.tip{background:var(--paper);border:1px solid var(--line);border-left:5px solid var(--sea);border-radius:12px;padding:1.1rem 1.3rem;margin:2rem 0;font-size:1.02rem}
.tip strong{font-family:var(--sans);display:block;font-size:.8rem;letter-spacing:.12em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--sea);margin-bottom:.35rem}

.author{display:flex;gap:1.1rem;align-items:flex-start;background:var(--paper);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:14px;padding:1.3rem;margin:2.8rem 0 0;font-family:var(--sans);font-size:.95rem;line-height:1.55}
.author img{width:76px;height:76px;border-radius:50%;object-fit:cover;flex-shrink:0}
.author b{font-size:1.05rem;color:var(--sea-deep)}
.socials{margin-top:.55rem;display:flex;gap:.4rem;flex-wrap:wrap}
.socials a{font-size:.8rem;color:var(--sea);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:999px;padding:.25rem .7rem;text-decoration:none}
.socials a:hover{background:var(--sea);color:#fff}

.news{background:var(--sea-deep);color:#fff;border-radius:14px;padding:1.6rem;margin:2rem 0 0;text-align:center;font-family:var(--sans)}
.news p{margin:.3rem 0 1rem;color:#c8dde9;font-size:.95rem}
.news b{font-size:1.15rem}
.news a{display:inline-block;background:var(--terracotta);color:#fff;text-decoration:none;font-weight:600;padding:.6rem 1.5rem;border-radius:999px;font-size:.95rem}
.news a:hover{filter:brightness(1.1)}

footer{background:var(--sea-deep);color:#9fc4d8;font-family:var(--sans);font-size:.85rem;margin-top:3rem}
footer .bar{padding:1.4rem 1.25rem;display:flex;justify-content:space-between;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:.6rem}
footer a{color:#e8f1f6;text-decoration:none;margin-left:1.1rem}
footer a:hover{text-decoration:underline}
.disclosure{font-size:.72rem;color:var(--ink-soft);opacity:.8;margin-top:.15rem}

/* baked-preview only */
.sc-marker{border:2px dashed var(--terracotta);border-radius:10px;background:#fdf6f0;
  padding:.7rem 1rem;margin:1.4rem 0;font-family:ui-monospace,Menlo,monospace;
  font-size:.78rem;color:#8a4326;overflow-wrap:anywhere}
.sc-marker::before{content:"UNRENDERED SHORTCODE";display:block;font-weight:700;
  letter-spacing:.1em;font-size:.68rem;margin-bottom:.3rem}

/* ── pass-2 additions ── */
article img{max-width:100%;height:auto}
article ol{margin:0 0 1.25rem 1.4rem}
.alignleft{float:left;margin:.4rem 1.2rem .8rem 0;max-width:50%}
.alignright{float:right;margin:.4rem 0 .8rem 1.2rem;max-width:50%}
.aligncenter{display:block;margin:1.2rem auto}
.alignnone{margin:.4rem 0}
.wp-caption{max-width:100%;background:var(--paper);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:12px;padding:.5rem}
.wp-caption-text{font-family:var(--sans);font-size:.85rem;color:var(--ink-soft);text-align:center;margin:.4rem 0 0}
.table-wrap{overflow-x:auto;margin:1.6rem 0}
.table-wrap table{border-collapse:collapse;font-family:var(--sans);font-size:.92rem;min-width:100%}
.table-wrap td,.table-wrap th{border:1px solid var(--line);padding:.5rem .7rem;background:var(--paper)}
.video{position:relative;aspect-ratio:16/9;margin:1.8rem 0}
.video iframe{width:100%;height:100%;border:0;border-radius:14px}
article iframe{max-width:100%}
/* affiliate widgets (Stay22 maps): framed panel so a blocked/loading widget reads
   as an intentional card, not a void */
article iframe[src*="stay22.com"]{background:var(--paper);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:14px}
.location-pin-wrapper{font-family:var(--sans);margin:.6rem 0;font-weight:600}
.location-pin-icon::before{content:"📍"}
.location-before-text{font-family:var(--sans);color:var(--ink-soft);margin:.6rem 0}
.amzn-card{display:flex;gap:1.2rem;align-items:flex-start;background:#fff;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:14px;padding:1.1rem 1.3rem;margin:1.8rem 0;font-family:var(--sans)}
.amzn-img{flex:0 0 140px}
.amzn-img img{width:140px;height:auto;border-radius:8px;box-shadow:none}
.amzn-body{display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:.55rem;min-width:0}
.amzn-title{font-weight:700;font-size:1.02rem;line-height:1.35;color:var(--sea-deep);text-decoration:none}
.amzn-title:hover{color:var(--terracotta)}
.amzn-specs{margin:0 0 0 1.1rem;padding:0;font-size:.88rem;color:var(--ink-soft)}
.amzn-specs li{margin:.15rem 0}
.amzn-btn{align-self:flex-start;background:var(--terracotta);color:#fff;font-weight:600;font-size:.9rem;text-decoration:none;padding:.5rem 1.2rem;border-radius:999px}
.amzn-btn:hover{filter:brightness(1.1)}
.amzn-disclosure{font-size:.72rem;color:var(--ink-soft);opacity:.85}
@media(max-width:560px){.amzn-card{flex-direction:column}.amzn-img{flex-basis:auto}}
.cat-list{list-style:none;margin:0;padding:0}
.cat-list li{margin:.5rem 0;font-family:var(--sans);font-size:1rem}
.cat-list small{color:var(--ink-soft);margin-left:.4rem}
.mvc{background:var(--paper);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:14px;padding:1.3rem 1.4rem 1.5rem;margin:2rem 0;font-family:var(--sans)}
.mvc>.mvc-title{font-family:var(--sans);font-size:1.4rem;color:var(--sea-deep);margin:0 0 1.1rem;padding-top:.9rem;position:relative}
.mvc>.mvc-title::before{content:"";position:absolute;top:0;left:0;width:56px;height:4px;border-radius:2px;background:var(--terracotta)}
.mvc-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fill,minmax(220px,1fr));gap:1rem;counter-reset:mvc}
.mvc-item{position:relative;display:flex;flex-direction:column;background:#fff;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:12px;overflow:hidden;text-decoration:none;color:var(--ink);transition:box-shadow .15s,transform .15s}
.mvc-item:hover{box-shadow:0 6px 20px rgba(9,63,86,.14);transform:translateY(-2px)}
.mvc-item img,.mvc-item .ph{width:100%;aspect-ratio:16/9;object-fit:cover;display:block}
.mvc-item .ph{background:linear-gradient(135deg,var(--sea),var(--sea-deep));color:#fff;display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:center;opacity:.9}
.mvc-item .ph span{font-size:.85rem;font-weight:600;opacity:.9}
.mvc-body{padding:.7rem .85rem .95rem;display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:.3rem}
.mvc-item .mvc-t{font-size:.95rem;line-height:1.3;font-weight:700;color:var(--sea-deep)}
.mvc-item .mvc-d{font-size:.82rem;line-height:1.45;color:var(--ink-soft)}
.mvc-item::before{counter-increment:mvc;content:counter(mvc);position:absolute;top:.55rem;left:.55rem;z-index:2;background:var(--terracotta);color:#fff;font-size:.78rem;font-weight:700;width:1.6rem;height:1.6rem;border-radius:50%;display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:center;box-shadow:0 1px 5px rgba(0,0,0,.35)}
.content-box-grayy{background:var(--paper);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:14px;padding:1.2rem 1.4rem;margin:1.8rem 0}
/* sticky header — pure CSS, no CLS (stays in flow), no JS */
header{position:sticky;top:0;z-index:100;box-shadow:0 2px 10px rgba(9,63,86,.18)}
[id]{scroll-margin-top:5.5rem}
/* phase 2: link-only lists in a white box */
.linkbox{background:#fff;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:14px;padding:.55rem 1.25rem;margin:1.6rem 0}
.linklist{list-style:none;margin:0;padding:0}
.linklist li{padding:.6rem 0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}
.linklist li:last-child{border-bottom:0}
.linklist a{font-family:var(--sans);font-size:1rem;font-weight:500;text-decoration:none}
.linklist a::before{content:"→";color:var(--terracotta);margin-right:.55rem}
/* phase 3: link lists as content tiles (homepage trial) */
.tile-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fill,minmax(210px,1fr));gap:1rem;margin:1.6rem 0}
.tile{display:flex;flex-direction:column;background:#fff;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:12px;overflow:hidden;text-decoration:none;color:var(--ink);transition:box-shadow .15s,transform .15s}
.tile:hover{box-shadow:0 6px 20px rgba(9,63,86,.14);transform:translateY(-2px)}
.tile img{width:100%;aspect-ratio:16/9;object-fit:cover;display:block;border-radius:0;box-shadow:none;margin:0}
.tile-ph{width:100%;aspect-ratio:16/9;display:block;background:linear-gradient(135deg,var(--sea),var(--sea-deep))}
.tile-b{padding:.7rem .85rem .9rem;display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:.3rem}
.tile-t{font-family:var(--sans);font-weight:700;font-size:.95rem;line-height:1.3;color:var(--sea-deep)}
.tile-d{font-family:var(--sans);font-size:.82rem;line-height:1.45;color:var(--ink-soft)}
/* content bullets: tight spacing + separator line under each */
article ul:not([class])>li{padding-bottom:.55rem;margin-bottom:.55rem;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}
article ul:not([class])>li:last-child{border-bottom:0;padding-bottom:0;margin-bottom:0}
article ul:not([class]) ul{margin-top:.55rem;margin-bottom:0}
article p:empty{display:none}
.snapshot ul.takeaways{margin:0 0 0 1.15rem;padding:0}
.snapshot ul.takeaways li{margin:.35rem 0;font-size:.98rem;line-height:1.5}
/* FAQ box */
.faq-box{background:#fff;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:14px;padding:1.4rem 1.7rem 1.1rem;margin:2.2rem 0}
.faq-box h2{margin-top:0}
.faq-box h3{font-family:var(--sans);font-size:1.08rem;color:var(--sea-deep);margin:1.3rem 0 .45rem}
/* Comments (read-only archive) */
.comments{margin:2.6rem 0 0}
.comments-closed{background:var(--paper);border:1px solid var(--line);border-left:5px solid var(--terracotta);border-radius:12px;padding:1rem 1.2rem;margin:0 0 1.5rem;font-family:var(--sans);font-size:.95rem}
.comment-list,.c-replies{list-style:none;margin:0;padding:0}
.c-replies{margin:.9rem 0 0 1.6rem}
.comment{background:var(--paper);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:12px;padding:.9rem 1.1rem;margin:0 0 .9rem;font-size:.95rem;line-height:1.6}
.c-replies .comment{background:#fff}
.comment.byauthor{border-left:4px solid var(--sea)}
.c-head{font-family:var(--sans);font-size:.82rem;color:var(--ink-soft);margin-bottom:.4rem;display:flex;align-items:center;gap:.55rem;flex-wrap:wrap}
.c-head b{color:var(--ink);font-size:.95rem}
.c-badge{background:var(--sea);color:#fff;font-size:.62rem;font-weight:700;letter-spacing:.08em;text-transform:uppercase;padding:.16rem .5rem;border-radius:999px}
.c-body p{margin:0 0 .6rem}
.c-body p:last-child{margin-bottom:0}
